After exams, Sinclar, Rory, Marcus and I spent a few days down south. We went climbing at Limekilns and Cambusbarron quarries which were fun. I did a cool smearing slab arete called Spanking the Monkey and a few polished classics. It was my 20th birthday too, so we went for a few in the culture capital.
Back in Inverness, I met up with Callum, Ryan and Appleby and we formulated a plan for a few days on the West Coast.
Appleby and Callum on the second belay - Cioch Nose
On thursday evening we set off for the Bealach na Ba, where we dropped down to the A'Cioch ridge for the essential Lairig/Patey classic - Cioch Nose. After completing the rock pitches without much difficulty, we found ourselves faced with a rather imposing steep ridge under imminent darkness.
Callum @ last belay - Cioch Nose
Despite it's grim appearance, the ridge succumbed to some tactful route finding and upon reaching the first nipple, we were treated with a perfect cloud inversion to the North-West. We reached the car at 12.30 and bivvied in the car park.
Summit car park Bealach na Ba - Skye ridge in background
The next day we set off for northern Skye and the apparently less frequented cliffs of the Rubha Hunish peninsula - Skye's most northerly point. The 'difficulties' first arose on stepping out of the car. It mist cleared and the sun arked perfectly up into a matte blue sky. Our pale skins craved the warmth and we essentially spent the trip sunbathing and swimming..
After some well earned rest, Appleby and I dropped down to 'Master of Morgana', an 80m HVS following a chimney, cracks and an offwidth up the right arete of the cliff. The route was impressive and rather intimidating for the grade. Some loose rock and an awkward chimney saw me on to delicate collumnar slabs and the first belay among a lovely little flower garden. Appleby belayed half way up the second, after running out out of useful gear, leaving me the awkward 25m offwidth - but thankfully the finest rock! The lack of gear turned out to be a non-issue as i spent the time stuffing the only large cam we had into the depths of a crack, and threading a few dubious chockstones. It's always a little disheartening to climb a well protected route with little of the correct gear.. An awkward overhanging 'au cheval' slot marked the final few metres and another sunny belay. I spent the remainder of the afternoon wandering the around the cliffs, napping some more and taking pictures. The harder lines could wait... That night we stayed in the renovated RAF shelter on the summit of the cliff plateau. It had a 180 panorama of the NW coast and Islands.
One of the spectabular cliffs on Rubha Hunish
Applebby following me up the final offwidth
Applebby topping out of the strenuous au cheval finish
Looking NW from Rubha Hunish
Ryan and Callum on the VS arrete
The peninsula was plastered in lovely little flowers
On saturday we neglected the idea of climbing and spent the day in Portree and the Fairy Pools - the perfect tourist day out! I had arranged to meet Rob, Alli and Fin at the Glen Brittle campsite where we would set off for the south end of the Cuillin ridge and bivvy that evening, taking some of Fin's kit back for him.
A long walk in to Garbh Bheinn, above a stunning island panorama eventually saw us on the most southerly point of the ridge and our bivvy spots. It was serene. Fin planned to run at 4am and we picked up his kit when he left off. It was my first time on the ridge and i was totally stunned by it's beauty and enticing objective - which has since consumed me! I had of course hoped my first attempt would be as a full traverse - but the arrangement was relaxed and alli wasn't feeling super fit. He has a bad shoulder injury preventing him from climbing for very long and only a handful of hill days in the past year too, so did impressively well to maintain a decent pace.
Alli on the Garbh Bheinn approach - looking South to Rum
Looking south from the approach
Fin and Alli on the Southernmost top of the ridge
Bla Bheinn from the bivvy
Looking west over Sgurr Alasdair and Mhic Coinnich
My suffer bivvy spot..
This is mind, we set off at 5am, relaxed and enjoying the situation in the warm morning sun. We reached Coire Laggan at 9 and with Allis shoulder hurting and the sun already beating down, Rob and I popped up to solo the In Pin then met him down in Coire Laggan for a sun session.
It did feel a little odd to be retreating mid-morning - with lots of water and food left, but we knew to avoid the baking sun at midday we would have to had been further along at that point. Regardless, it was a brilliant morning and we had the day ahead of us to enjoy the weather. Finlay unsurprisingly met us on the way down from Coire Laggan - having run the ridge rather quickly and cycled back down Glen Brittle. We set off back to Inverness after chips in Kyle.
Me on the most awkward severe going.. - TD gap
Rob and Alli on Mhic Coinnich
Rob approaching Mhic Coinnich
Me after a free solo on-sight ascent of the In Pin
..and some pasty punters on the Coire Laggan boiler plates - Alli doesn't believe in sun cream